The guy at the start of the video was caught way inside. So far inside that he used it to his advantage, just chilling while the next wave churned its way towards him, expending most of its energy before reaching the surfer.
You’re not always granted the convenience of that kind of distance between waves when caught inside, but this is a great example of staying calm and saving your energy for when you really need it.
0:00 Intro
0:32 Bruno
1:14 000
5:05 Gaby Escudero: https://www.instagram.com/gaby_escudero/
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