How to surf ?
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To start with, bodysurf a little, which means you glide on the wave with your body.
What you should do is: in waist-to-chest deep water, let yourself glide towards the shore, on white foam, with your arms stretched out in front of you. You will feel how far a small wave can carry you. Do it as many times as you want.
This method is the best to get the feeling of the waves.
Glide belly-down.
The first time you glide on a beginner’s board it’s in the same water zone: in waist-to-chest water, on the same waves (white water). Glide belly-down on the board.
You will then experience how to manoeuvre your surfboard and how to use the energy of the waves at your best.
Standing up
Knowing how to stand up is an essential step you must master.
The transition from laying down to standing up can be done in different ways. You need to practise on dry land to experience the feeling of changing your balance.
Straight up on to your feet
Tip: put your hands lower than your shoulders on the rails before you pop up.
Stopping at the knees
Tip: each part of your body should follow the movement accordingly – you release your hands from the rails only once your feet are in position on the board, and only at that moment.
In both cases, once you’re up, keep your knees bent and do not fully stretch your body.
You’ll see that in the water, it’s a bit different, but you should keep practising the move both on land and in water. It will help you to have a break and get some perspective.
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