Don’t Be This Surfer


Ah, the frustration of the beginner surfer. You paddle out, eager to catch that perfect wave, only to find yourself out of position, paddling for scraps while everyone else shreds. Sound familiar? Fear not, grommet shredders! This guide, inspired by Longboard Sessions’ awesome YouTube video, will equip you with the knowledge to snag those waves and transform your surf sessions from frustrating fumbles to exhilarating rides.

The first step to wave domination? Ditch the follower mentality. It’s tempting to just paddle out and hang where the other surfers are, but this strategy is a recipe for disappointment, especially at crowded beach breaks. Here’s the secret: become a wave detective. Before you even grab your board, scan the horizon. Identify an upcoming wave with good potential – one that’s unbroken and has a clean, rideable wall. Remember, a crowded peak doesn’t guarantee a good wave, and sometimes scoring a gem requires a bit of strategic positioning.

Once you’ve identified your target wave, here’s where situation awareness becomes key. Imagine the beach as your giant surf clock. Pick a fixed landmark, like a jetty or a lifeguard tower, as your 12 o’clock. Now, keep an eye on other surfers in the water. Notice how far out they are paddling in relation to your landmark. This will give you a good idea of where you need to position yourself to catch that sweet spot on your chosen wave. Remember, consistency is key here – practice using your landmark to gauge your position consistently, and you’ll be surprised how quickly your wave positioning improves.

But wait, there’s more! Great surfers aren’t passive lumps floating on their boards. Become one with the water! As the conditions change, so should your paddling strategy. Don’t be afraid to paddle around and stay mobile. Look for the peaks – those high points where the wave starts to break. By actively maneuvering your board, you’ll be in the perfect spot to pop up and ride the wave as it breaks. Think of yourself as a shark – constantly circling and hunting for the tastiest (read: most rideable) wave.

Now, for the ultimate insider tip: learn to read the body language of other surfers. Sometimes, another wave might be blocking your view of the incoming set. But fret not, grasshopper! Experienced surfers are like a living wave forecast system. Watch their body language. If you see a bunch of surfers suddenly paddling back out like a synchronized retreat, it’s a good indicator that a monster wave is on its way. Take their cue and follow suit!

By mastering these wave positioning secrets, you’ll transform from a frustrated beginner to a wave-catching machine. Remember, conquering crowded beach breaks requires more strategy than brute strength. So, ditch the follower mentality, become a wave detective, and most importantly, have fun out there! After all, that’s what surfing is all about, right?

LocalsOnly Contributor

Meet Jake, a contributor here! At just 25 years old, he has already conquered some of the gnarliest waves around the world. Born and raised in a small beach town, surfing has always been a part of Jake's life. He caught his first wave at the age of 5 and hasn't looked back since. Jake is known for his laid-back attitude and easy-going personality, making him a hit among fellow surfers and locals alike.

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